travellers tales

If you have experienced life on Kefalonia - and would like to
write about it- please send me your piece and I will try to include it here:

Alan Wright:
We have visited Katelios about 15/16 times - it is a wonderful resort.
We would like to recommend:Medusa
One of our favourites, it is owned by Elias who is very helpful and
friendly, we always get a welcome drink and really good service. He has a
wonderful menu and all his staff are pleasant and make the holiday special.
Katelios Taverna
This September, we had a different type of holiday - we took 2 of our
grandchildren with us. The menu at Katelios Taverna has dishes to appeal to
young children, fish fingers, chicken nuggets, English sausage.
Elias is a wonderful guy, he was fantastic with our young boys. He is
assisted by his mother [who loves children] and his father who is a very
quiet but friendly man. Waiting on tables are two English ladies - both
called Lynne. They all made our holiday so special. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. We
will be back there next June and September

Nick:
I would like to recommend the Taverna Kelafatas on the harbour in Argostoli. Good food at reasonable prices.

Bernadette: I came back from kefalonia on the 18th of August . I went with my daughter, my friend, and her son, for two weeks. We stayed at the Bella Vista appartments.The accommodation was basic, It felt a bit like a camping holiday. the rooms were boiling at night but we were given a fan, which was great, but I also ended up freezing bottles of water to take to bed with me!
We had a ground floor flat which you could see the sea, the view was beautiful. We had a pool and plenty of sun loungers and chairs/tables etc and you could hear all the insects at night which was a lovely sound. The people who gave us our key and cleaned the pool seemed kind and helpful, the pool was cleaned every night and closed about seven, but there didn't seem to be any hard or fast rules about it.
The only real thing we all didn't like is the big slopes we had to walk up to our apartments and to and from the beach. It was hard going carrying water especially in the heat. though I must stress we aren't the fittest of people so the exercise probably did us good. I really loved swimming in the sea, seeing all the fish in the water and trying to catch them in a net, impossible! but I bought a snorkel and goggles, its a must, next year imp buying good quality ones its a fantastic feeling being under the sea.
the local supermarket was run by a family, the main server was a very lovely person, always willing to chat about what we had been upload it is handy that the majority of people on the island could speak good English. lazy I know !! We went to Argostoli on the night of Gerassomo's feast day. we sat in the square eating our meal when a parade of Greek priest and followers walked passed, that was quite moving, it was lovely seeing the priests singing their prayers on the stage. we went on the b-b-q and oneness island excursions also. although it hands extra cost to the holiday it is worth doing them, now looking back.

Iam 15 and went to Kefalonia last summer, it was certainly the best place ive ever been to! We stayed in a villa called the "House on the Hill" and it was situated perfectly 2mins from Lassi and 2mins from Argostoli! We often ate out in Argostoli and the night life was fabulous, there were many young Greek people out who enjoyed just lazing after a big meal and a long day. The people were VERY friendly and i loved the Greek way of life. We spent time in Fiskardo which was filled with many yachts from all over the world worth alot of money and it was a very colourful place! We visited Lassi, and spent time sunbathing on Markris Gialso Beach. There was a taverna there which i can't remember the name of but it over-looked a gorgous turquoise sea and a baby blue sky. I think, when im older i would like to spend a gap year there as it was certainly one of the best holidays, it was just magical. Everyone was friendly, the houses were gorgous and everything was kept was soooo clean. I jsut hope it doesn't change before i go back there!!!!!

I am compelled to relate the story of our local taverna waiter, who befriended us the first evening when we selected a place to eat by the process of elimination whilst walking the water front in Katelios. He struck up an immediate friendship with Jacob our eight year old by jibing Aston Villa as an unknown football team of which division? On several subsequent occasions we were disappointed when we could not eat a the same taverna as they were so busy. However on the last night a concerted effort by all to get to the water front by 7.30 after consuming the mandatory cocktail (one of Jackies delights together with chocolate). I requested a favour - a paper table cloth having the map of Kefalonia printed on it, to which he obliged after signing it and inscribing his mobile phone number instructing Jacob to text him on his safe arrival back home. He then suggested he would see us prior to our departure the next day as he worked from 10 till 2pm just across the road.

At the age of 16 he was involved in a motor bike accident and pronounced dead by the hospital doctors on arrival. He was aware that after the accident he found himself in a dark place with no light and in excruciating pain, he was aware that a part of his anatomy by leaving his body gyrating upwards he asked himself aloud what this could be, when it replied to him explaining that it was his heart and that it was going to the one whom had given him life and that it was the good element in his life, that which remained was evil and bad. Nicolas asked his heart where he was and was distressed when told he was in hell, he protested stating that he had done no wrong; upon which his life flashed before him as in a video and he observed that all he had done was of a selfish nature and to satisfy his own needs. Nicholas began to cry, where upon a light appeared which grew ever larger - from the light came a voice which declared that his time was not yet!

Nicholas opened his eyes to observe a surgeon over him with his hands inside his chest (at this point he opened his shirt to show us the scare which was an incision from the top of his chest to the base of his stomach) who was about to take organs from his body for the purpose of donning. Nicholas was able to attract his attention and declared he was not dead. He was rushed to the hospital from the morgue and was in a comer for three months. Upon gaining his health his first request was for a Holy Bible. I asked what his favourite book was within the bible - he replied the book of John.

My wife Teri and I have just returned from a fortnight on the south coast of Kefalonia, staying in Svoronata. She is American, having never been outside the States until January 2000 (we married in England in April of last year!). She never dreamt in her wildest dreams of going to exotic European places like Spain and Greece (we went to Porto Collom on the east coast of Majorca last year), but now she has been to both. She was a bit wary at first (the Greek plumbing came as a shock, even though I did warn her from my previous experiences on Lesvos in 1994) but thoroughly enjoyed Kefalonia: very relaxing.
If you'd like to see a pictorial 'essay' of our holiday, visit
http://www.emjayp.demon.co.uk/hol2001/holiday.html

We are about to visit the island for our 16th visit on sunday 30th sept, our first visit was August 1989 we just fell in love with it and have return every year since sometimes twice in one year like now we were last there in July. the people of Kefalonia are the most friendly and genuine we have ever come across and we have visited many many Greek islands. we are treated just like locals and even get called Janni & Paulena the Greek names for Pauline & John.

"Katelios is at the southern part of the island of Kefalonia. To me it is the most beautiful part. After my first visit in 1997,I have returned as often as possible and I am now on my tenth visit and hoping to live there one day. I cannot put it into words why I love this small quiet part of the island, but I am sure you will understand once you have taken my advice to holiday there for a few weeks.

All the locals are so friendly, and as soon as you arrive they will make you so welcome. I recommend your first stop of the day to be the Blue Sea pool and bar, just a short walk from the main village. Here you will meet Makis, who will look after you while you relax with a cold beer. If you want food, Makis will serve you. If you want information, Makis will tell you .If you want a taxi, Makis will ring for you, all your needs will be meet and always with a smile, so all you have to do is lie back, relax in the sun and take in the beautiful scenery of the surrounding areas, like Markopoulo.

After a hard day relaxing at the Blue Sea pool, take a walk up to the Galini and have a chat with Terry and Vicky and perhaps have a drink at their bar. A quick sleep, then shower and you will be ready to hit the town, or should I say the village. First stop of the evening you must go and see Spiro and his brother Dennis at the Blue Sea Restaurant. Browse through the menu, order and watch as Dennis cooks you a delicious meal.

Spiro will come and have a chat to you, he is the most genuine person you could wish to meet and nothing is to much trouble for him as you will find out as soon as you meet him, he will always say " no problem" to any thing you want.

You could easily stay there watching as the sun sets, as it changes the colours of the sea from bright blue to pink and then when the moon comes up over Kaminia Beach the sea and landscape is a spectacular sight to see, as also are the stars in the ink blue sky.

Now your appetite has been fulfilled, take a walk around the village. it is so different at night . You could stop at the Katelios Taverna for yet another drink, if you turned right from the Blue Sea Restaurant or if you go left, carry on past the kiosk you will end up at Gerrys bar, but you could always stay at the restaurant and watch the world go by.

Last stop of the evening, again I would recommend you return to the Blue Sea pool bar. Like the village it is very different at night and Makis will still be there and would love to see you, and like Spiro, he will chat and serve you until dawn if that is what you wish.

I do hope you will take my advice and make this your next holiday destination, you will not be disappointed I guarantee."

"Yiasou Andrea, my wife Suzanne and I have had four brilliant holidays on kefi and but for work comittments we would surely be back every year as the island is truly stunning. We are talking about the island before the Americans filmed Captain etc etc (Yes I too really rate Nic Cage) we generally based in Lassi but did explore and We tended to `Love` Lassi and over the hill to Argostoli.......that peninsula that points n/west from Lassi to Argostoli has got to be one the most `must see` places in all of greece! ....Highly recommended is the view from the blue church in Spillia which overlooks Lassi...one can see the whole of the peninsula from this vantage point...even accross the bay to

Lixouri...also a GREAT FERRY TRIP FROM ARGOSTOLI ..please tell your readers about these two great items I have mentioned...we do not want them sitting on one of the `Makrys` beaches thinking this is all there is....get them along the `Lovers` Walk` from Lassi via Fanari through to Katavothres and on to Argostoli via the scenic route....OH my god to actually there would be heaven...maybe one day...ANYWAY GOOD PLACES TO EAT....The Olive Press in Lassi and Oscars......my kindest regards and love your site

Laurie & Maureen Steel
"We have been there and seen the island. We have met the people and we loved them both. Now we have seen the Corelli film and read the book. We liked the one and loved the other. Now we head for the real thing.

Kefalonia is not in what you see. The buildings that stand are, for the most part, modern. Those that lie ruined from the earthquake or buried from earlier history are difficult for us to rebuild in our minds. They are tantalising glimpses of the people who built them and then built their lives there.

The real Kefalonia is in the heartbeat that comes from within the depths of the black mountain. It is echoed in the fleeting hoof beats of the wild horses as they move, ghostlike among the dark pines. The wind across the mountain is echoed by the leaf rustling breeze that moves among the olive groves on the lower slopes, drawing the warm scent of the wild herbs down to the crystal water’s edge. There among the diamond bright sparkle of breaking wavelets the turtles come to answer the call that is as deep within them as the mystery is within the depths of the island foundation, carrying that clear water beneath the beating heart of living rock and casting it up on another shore.

Sit in the bustle of the square in Argostoli as the blue black velvet sky draws back to show jewel sharp stars. They are the same stars that we see from our poor viewpoint on our own grey island. Sit in the village kaphenion in Markopoulou and sample the Rizigalo; ice cold and cinnamon spiced, whilst those same stars turn slowly overhead. In Kefalonia we imagine that we can see beyond those glinting pinpoints into the mantle of time itself. There we meet the people of the island, generous and welcoming now as they have ever been to the stranger in their midst.

Visit the village square, near the church in Metaxata. On the church wall is a memorial plaque to the crew of a Greek ship lost in a storm in the twenties. Close by there is a memorial to the Englishman, Lord Byron, who helped the Greeks fight for their freedom. He was only there for a short time, but he gave much in the Greek cause, and eventually died on Greek soil. The memorial is simple. It says, “Greece Remembers”. Local men lost or foreigner dead, the Kefalonian heart encompasses all.

Last year we stayed in new accommodation. We had not been there before. We greeted our hosts in our modest Greek. We were rewarded with gifts of fruit and smiles, the second as warm and fresh as the first. We walked the village roads and were greeted by an openness and warmth that eased its way beneath the skin to sink the foundation on which our firm love of this land is so solidly built. As solid as the very rock beneath the feet of every traveller to visit this magic spot.

Who can leave this place and not wish to return? With respect I would say that it could only be he who is without a soul. One day we will not wish to return, because we will not leave. Our hearts and home will be there. Me ektimisi"

Fiona Ashton:
"Khiani Akthi - Argostloi Waterfront
This is a restaurant that we have visited on many occasions, it is recommended not only for its beautiful situation overlooking the water but also, and most importantly for it's excellent food and efficient and friendly service. This is a restaurant that is worth visiting again and again!!"

Michael Prime:
"To me as a travelling type the best beauty is that which lies within nature itself. The thing with Kefalonia is that its beauty is natural. From its sheer cliff faces that disappear beneath the blue of the Ionian Sea. Many poets, writers and artists have used Kefalonia as their Muse, and who could blame them?
It is hard to understand how such an island could have been subjected to such tragedy. Today apart from the amount of semi derelict buildings you see as you travel round the island, i see wild flowers, herbs, and the famous Kefalonion Furs. Butterfles, birds and even cats that sunbathe!
Every town from Fiskardo through to Argostoli, Sami to Lixouri we see nothing but Buildings from white to pastel blue set out against the
mountainous terrain, and i think how can a place like this exist, it is near perfect. From the Blue of Mirtos to the greens and yellows of the citrus plantations, i see before me a place natural beauty my only wish is that it could stay that way".

Just came back from the island - wonderful landscapes and people. Stayed in Skala mainly and spent the majority of the time on the beach (very nice but could do with a clean up due to tide) and Pikiona Bar and Pool (Very hospitable) - Captains Bar is a must for friendliness since Monica and Tina are very very very hospitable. If you are looking for a more lively nightspot in the resort, try the Scandinavia Bar for a nightclub feel without the hassle - be warned though since drinks are slightly more expensive after the Happy Hour but George on the door will always welcome you in if you are known to him.

Laurie and Maureen Steel write: " In Kato Katelios there is a superbly friendly taverna. It goes by the name of Lighthouse. Turn right at the kiosk and it is the first taverna that you come to. Kostas and Makis will give you a warm welcome and if you are fortunate you may be served by Kostas's lovely wife Georgia. The Elliniko Taverna in Kato Katelios has a counterpart in Argostoli, having the same name and belonging to the same family as the one in Katelios. Friendly people , good food. Well worth a visit."

Barrie Watkins writes: "I would like to recommend the 'Cavo Liacas' bar/restaurant in the village of Spartia. You can be always sure of a warm welcome and good food from the owners George and Katrina Lorenjatos"

Jane hudson writes " Persa's Taverna traditionally Greek menu, superbly clean throughout, the odd spell of Greek dancing and singing is a must. ostria and Medusa both good. Persa's Taverna is the only restaurant in Kefalonia featured in a publication called Alpha 2001, it is also featured in one of the maps of the island.

A KEFALONIAN DREAM
by Jo and Ken Preedy, Essex.

We spent the last two weeks of July on the beautiful island
of Kefalonia and just fell in love with it. To us it is a
dream island. The scenery is breathtaking and the mountain
roads brings another beautiful scene around every bend. At
times you might think you are in Canada as you are
confronted by tall pine trees. Around another bend you
might expect to see cowboys riding across the open plains.
The ruggedness of this island is just astounding. The sea really
is as blue and clear as the holiday brochures depict.

If you want discos and nightlife then this island isn't for
you. But if like us you want a relaxing holiday, in
beautiful surroundings then this is it.

We took a last minute package holiday and stayed in
Argostoli. A very busy lively town with lots of shops and
lovely friendly people. If you are self catering then
take a tip and shop where the Greeks shop. The fruit and
veg market is a must. Unbelievably cheap and fresh.

We went on the first available coach tour of the island at
a cost of approximately 30 pounds for the two of us. It was
well worth the money and gave us our first glimpse plus an
excellent insight of the history of the island. We then
hired a car for the rest of our stay and explored the
island at our leisure.

As you travel through the mountains you will see many old
ruins. Many of these are the houses ruined in the
earthquake of 1953. We have been told that the ruins will
always remain, as the people who fled the island after the
earthquake may one day come back to claim their land. What
lovely sentiment!

Be sure to visit the British Cemetery and pay your respects
at the final resting place of over two hundred British
Servicemen and their families, plus a handful of civilians
who had either served with the armed forces or had made
their homes in Kefalonia. The cemetery lies just to the
North end of the Drapano Bridge on the road to Lixouri
outside of Argostoli. You may even meet the Englishman,
Roy Harrison who looks after the Cemetery.

A great family-run taverna in Lassi, is Zorba's. Great
food, great atmosphere and lovely staff. They have Greek
dancing there three nights per week which is good fun.

Have you ever seen ducks swimming in the sea? Well give
yourself a treat and visit Karavomilos just outside Sami on
the road to Agia Efimia and Fiskardo. This was one of our
most favourite spots and best seen well before midday when
you will almost have it to yourself. The tranquil beauty
of this place was moving. To stand enchanted looking out
across the bay, the clear water lapping over the strip of
pebbles. To watch the six ducks swimming backwards and
forwards close to the shore, waiting for the church clock
to strike and the only Taverna there to open at midday,
knowing that at last they will be fed as they dare to
waddle up to your table at the waters edge. To look up in
awe at the most unusual huge tree that dominates the area.
As the bark peels off, it reveals several unusual
colourings underneath. (Alas nobody seemed to know what
sort of tree it is)! And last but not least, the Sea Mill
- the phenomenon - watch the force of water that drives it,
as the sea and everywhere around it stays virtually calm!

We could go on and on about Kefalonia, so why not visit
yourself and see why we call this island a Kefalonian
Dream! We can't wait to go back out there in
February/March for the local carnival and we are seriously
thinking of living permanently out there!

Incidentally, yes we are a pair of romantics, but on this
occasion we didn't need rose coloured glasses!

Jo and Ken.

_______________________________________________
OUR HOLIDAY IN KEFALONIA
by Ruth Sheffer, Jerusalem, Israel.

We have just come back from a week on the beautiful Ionian island
of Kefalonia. It was everything we had looked forward to and more.
I think it's the only place I've been on holiday where the reality is
better than the pix in the holiday brochures!

We chose Kefalonia because we wanted an island NOT for party animals
which was quiet, with good scenery, a little exploring and somewhere suitable
for our boys,12,14 to run around ,explore nature and for us to relax.
Having read up on various Greek islands ,we chose Kefalonia, and
then started to look for more info. Andrea's website (www.kefalonia.co.uk)
helped a lot in our choice too.

We stayed at the San Giorgio hotel in Skala. This is a new
complex about 5 minutes drive from Skala village, where you can
find everything you need. We had a self-catering apartment ,so
every day we went into Skala to get stuff in one of the 3
minimarkets . When we didn't feel like cooking there were plenty of
restaurants in Skala to choose from.

Our kids enjoyed the Pines Too bar because it had both Greek and
international things like Pizza and burgers. The San Giorgio also has
a wonderful swimming pool for those who prefer that to the sea. Since it was
open from 9am till 9pm it was easy to explore the island (Lake
Melissani, the Stalagmite caves at Drogarti, the ports of
Poros, Sami and Argostoli) and still get home for a dip in the late
afternoon. As for beaches, the beach at Skala was also great, clean
and quiet and uncrowded. And there are plenty other beaches
nearby which we never got around to sampling.

All in all a very good time was had by all, and lovely memories of a
place we would like to return to some day.
Ruth Sheffer, Jerusalem, Israel.
________________________________________________

CHRIS BANTING STAYED IN SVORONATA
"I have just returned (1/7) from Svoronata - what a wonderfully quiet and as
yet unspoilt village. There are two very fine beaches at Ammes and Avithos.
Ammes is just at the end of the runway so you get some spectacular views of
the planes as they land and take-off, but as flights are infrequent this
isn't too much of a problem. The beach is fine sand and the sea is
beautiful, clear and shallow.
Avithos is even better and the Dias (I think that's what it was called)
Taverna has a wonderful view of the beach and Dias? island with Zante on the
horizon and the best tuna salad I've ever tasted!
Both beaches have beach bars with cool drinks.

Apart from the beaches, there's a petrol pump, a couple of mini-markets and
Speros Taverna, a couple of other bars and a hotel, there is nothing but the
sun and the sound of crickets. The most relaxing place I've ever been.

We stayed at the Pythos Apartments and they were excellent and for those
wanting quiet and isolation come highly recommended. We took a taxi to
Argostoli (6000Dr return trip) and had a great evening looking in the shops
and then eating in the town square. There is a junior gymnastic festival on
this week and the town junior band was parading through the square.

We also visited Sami and the set for Captain Corelli. It has taken a bit of
a pounding from two WW2 'planes of the Italian air force that have been
buzzing around all week. We didn't manage to see Nicholas Cage or John Hurt,
but we were told that Madonna had just left after a trip to Ithaka. Locals and
Tourists were being offered "extras" roles for a shoot on Friday 30/6.

We took a coach tour of the island visiting the Grogarati caves, Gerasimos
monastery, Robola wine factory, Lake Messina and Fiskardo. We also stopped
off at the top of the cliffs overlooking Myrtos? Beach. We passed through a
village that had been rebuilt down the hill from its original location
somewhere close to Agrostoli, I think it began with "F" and the ruins of the
old village have been left exactly as they were in 1953. Our neighbours
visited the village and they said it really brought home the devastation
caused in 1953. Old pails and pots and pans left were they fell.

If you want to get out and about, you need to hire a car or moped - but the
roads can be fairly scary. We managed for the week without (I forgot my
drivers licence), walking to the beaches and local tavernas, but with no
public transport other than taxis if you want to see the island you must
have transport.

The people are very friendly, the island is largely unspoilt - the best of
the Greek islands?" Chris Banting

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